1963 ford thunderbird neutral safety switch
![1963 ford thunderbird neutral safety switch 1963 ford thunderbird neutral safety switch](https://tbird.fordthunderbirdforum.com/data/attachments/36/36886-951b912bb9510400762b2d718fb1e3f2.jpg)
The assemblers make these tasks look easy, with no wasted movements, but each worker does 500 cars per shift. Each one of these operations takes under one minute to do on the assembly line.
![1963 ford thunderbird neutral safety switch 1963 ford thunderbird neutral safety switch](https://www.ctci.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/TUMB_NeutralSafetySwitch_1_lg-1024x768.jpg)
Then the transmission linkage is adjusted to the column (sleeve), and finally the steering wheel is held straight while the front end is aligned at the tie rods. When we build cars, the column goes in first. Your column moves because every car is built from stacks of sheet metal, so every car body is different but within tolerances. Notice that your Neutral Switch is screwed to the column and there is an allowance for adjustment. Otherwise, the bolts that hold the column to the dash should be loosened and the whole column will rotate. There should be a setup procedure in your Shop Manual for the steering column. Simply loosening a Squarebird column by two screws, pulling the housing to the driver's chest and tightening the same two screws fixed it. We have had Squarebird columns drop down so far, the horn no longer worked because the horn brush broke contact with the steering wheel contact plate. The inner shaft controls the steering box, the inner sleeve controls the shifter arms and finally, the outer housing controls mounting stability and how the 'PRNDL' looks to the driver. Think in terms of the guy on the assembly line, installing these columns. When everything is in sync, it all works great. Todd, there is a 'dance' that steering columns go through. If not readjust right or left and try again.not sure we are talking about the same type of switch.mine is on the bottom of the colunm half way down above the break petal there is no nylon rod that i see just the switch held by the two screws you can adjust as you desrcibed Then test the operation you should be able to operate the starter in P and N. Don't over-tighten because these are easy to strip. Put the shift lever on low and loosen the two screws holding the switch body in place, center it, then tighten the screws. In park it slides the switch way over to the left. With the shift lever in low the clip does not contact the rod at all. The stem is acted on by a small steel clip screwed to the inner column tube, and that tube is turned by the shift lever. The switch has a nylon rod sticking out the front that is the "stem" of the sliding switch. Didn't someone on the list here have something similar happen or was it just the case of the hotrod engine and getting carried away? Only takes seconds for something to go very wrong.The switch is mounted on top of the column (outer tube) near the firewall and held in place with two small screws in slotted holes so you can adjust it about 1/4" right-left. I'd hate to have it take off and mow over a bunch of innocent people. The mechanicals and safety features are more important than anything else. I have to have that NS just for the peace of mind. I don't even think bout it anymore, pull the handle push it back. My door handle spring that pushes it back forward after opeing the door has been broke forever. You do it autopilot if you've had the car long enough. Like just hold the handle up a tiny bit? Mine is fine with the column slid over but otherwise it has to be held.
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It is working but the driver needs to put a little more effort into starting it. Most old fords til you put new parts in have the sloppy gear shifter if that could be the cause of the NS not working. My ebrake doesn't hole worth a hoot to keep it from rolling backwards, might slow it down though so i use it and cramp the wheels toward a curb or some other large object just in case.